Showing posts with label a. Show all posts
Showing posts with label a. Show all posts
Friday, October 17, 2014
build a Low Cost Stereo Level Indicator
Usually, Low-Cost Stereo Level Indicator home stereo power amplifiers don’t have output level indicators. An output power level indicator can be added to each channel of these stereo power amplifiers. As low levels of the output power are not disturbing and damaging to the people, there is no need to add a preamplifier and low-level detector before IC LM3915. But you should know when the output power becomes considerably high.
Here we present a very simple, low-cost stereo-level indicator circuit for home power amplifiers with power rating of around 0.5W. The circuit is built around two LM3915 dot/bar display driver ICs (IC1 and IC2). LM3915 senses analogue voltage levels to drive ten LEDs, providing a logarithmic 3dB/step analogue display.
Stereo Level Indicator Circuit Diagram
Here we present a very simple, low-cost stereo-level indicator circuit for home power amplifiers with power rating of around 0.5W. The circuit is built around two LM3915 dot/bar display driver ICs (IC1 and IC2). LM3915 senses analogue voltage levels to drive ten LEDs, providing a logarithmic 3dB/step analogue display.
Stereo Level Indicator Circuit Diagram
The voltage levels below 1V are not important because these correspond to a low level of the audio signal. Similarly, input voltage levels above 30V correspond to too high levels of the output power, which are not applicable for home power amplifiers. So the voltage levels of our interest are 1V to 30V, which can be handled directly with LM3915. LM3915 needs no protection against ±35V inputs, which simplifies the circuit.
Most audio power amplifiers can drive 2-ohm to around 32-ohm loads. A load of several kilo-ohms will not change the conditions for the amplifier. CON1 is the input connector and CON2 output connector for the loudspeaker or headphone. Each channel has its own LM3915 and ten LEDs to indicate the power level. To indicate the different audio levels, select LEDs of three colours as per your liking. For example, you can have five green LEDs, three yellow LEDs and two red LEDs.
If appropriate signal generators and measuring equipment are not available, the level indicator can be calibrated based on personal observations. For example, the audio signal should be in the green LEDs zone when the signal is strong enough but not irritating, in the yellow zone when it is disturbing or starting to get distorted, and in the red zone when it is heavily distorted or too strong to listen to in the room.
Calibration can be done with the help of potentiometers VR1 and VR2, which are optional. Switches S1 and S2 let you select between two modes of LM3915 operation—the bar mode and the dot mode. These too can be removed or replaced with jumpers, if not required. When the switches are removed, leave pins 9 of IC1 and IC2 open.
The circuit works off regulated 12V. You can also power it through a 12V rechargeable battery.
Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a suitable cabinet. Fix all the LEDs in two rows on the front side of the cabinet. Also affix the two terminals for input and output on rear side of the cabinet. link
Most audio power amplifiers can drive 2-ohm to around 32-ohm loads. A load of several kilo-ohms will not change the conditions for the amplifier. CON1 is the input connector and CON2 output connector for the loudspeaker or headphone. Each channel has its own LM3915 and ten LEDs to indicate the power level. To indicate the different audio levels, select LEDs of three colours as per your liking. For example, you can have five green LEDs, three yellow LEDs and two red LEDs.
If appropriate signal generators and measuring equipment are not available, the level indicator can be calibrated based on personal observations. For example, the audio signal should be in the green LEDs zone when the signal is strong enough but not irritating, in the yellow zone when it is disturbing or starting to get distorted, and in the red zone when it is heavily distorted or too strong to listen to in the room.
Calibration can be done with the help of potentiometers VR1 and VR2, which are optional. Switches S1 and S2 let you select between two modes of LM3915 operation—the bar mode and the dot mode. These too can be removed or replaced with jumpers, if not required. When the switches are removed, leave pins 9 of IC1 and IC2 open.
The circuit works off regulated 12V. You can also power it through a 12V rechargeable battery.
Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a suitable cabinet. Fix all the LEDs in two rows on the front side of the cabinet. Also affix the two terminals for input and output on rear side of the cabinet. link
Thursday, December 26, 2013
A 4 Digit Keypad Controller Switch Circuit
A 4-Digit Keypad Controller Switch CircuitThis is a universal version of the Four-Digit Alarm Keypad . I have modified the design to free up the relay contacts. This allows the circuit to operate as a general-purpose switch. It also means that it can be used to control all of my Alarm Circuits. Ive used a SPCO/SPDT relay - but you can use a multi-pole relay if you wish.
The relay is energized by pressing a single key. Choose the key you want to use - and connect it to terminal "E". Choose the four keys you want to use to de-energize the relay - and connect them to "A B C & D". Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to "F".
The Circuit is easy to use. When you press "E" - current through D2 & R9 turns Q6 on - and energizes the relay. The two transistors - Q5 & Q6 - form a "Complementary Latch". So - when you release the key - the relay will remain energized.
To de-energize the relay - you need to press keys "A B C & D" in the right order. When you do so - pin 10 of the IC goes high - and it turns Q4 on through R8. Q4 connects the base of Q6 to ground. This unlatches the complementary pair - and the relay drops out.
Any keys not wired to "A B C D & E" are connected to the base of Q3 by R7. Whenever one of these "Wrong" keys is pressed - Q3 takes pin 1 low and the code entry sequence fails. If "C" or "D" is pressed out of sequence - Q1 or Q2 will also take pin 1 low - with the same result. If you make a mistake while entering the code - simply start again.
The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 or 8 terminals will NOT do. With a 12-key pad - over 10 000 different codes are available. If you need a more secure code - use a bigger keypad with more "Wrong" keys wired to "F". A 16-key pad gives over 40 000 different codes.
The relay is energized by pressing a single key. Choose the key you want to use - and connect it to terminal "E". Choose the four keys you want to use to de-energize the relay - and connect them to "A B C & D". Wire the common to R1 and all the remaining keys to "F".
The Circuit is easy to use. When you press "E" - current through D2 & R9 turns Q6 on - and energizes the relay. The two transistors - Q5 & Q6 - form a "Complementary Latch". So - when you release the key - the relay will remain energized.
To de-energize the relay - you need to press keys "A B C & D" in the right order. When you do so - pin 10 of the IC goes high - and it turns Q4 on through R8. Q4 connects the base of Q6 to ground. This unlatches the complementary pair - and the relay drops out.
Any keys not wired to "A B C D & E" are connected to the base of Q3 by R7. Whenever one of these "Wrong" keys is pressed - Q3 takes pin 1 low and the code entry sequence fails. If "C" or "D" is pressed out of sequence - Q1 or Q2 will also take pin 1 low - with the same result. If you make a mistake while entering the code - simply start again.
The Keypad must be the kind with a common terminal and a separate connection for each key. On a 12-key pad, look for 13 terminals. The matrix type with 7 or 8 terminals will NOT do. With a 12-key pad - over 10 000 different codes are available. If you need a more secure code - use a bigger keypad with more "Wrong" keys wired to "F". A 16-key pad gives over 40 000 different codes.
Wednesday, October 16, 2013
A Basic IR Link
Description:
A basic Imfra Red Link for audio communication for distances upto 3 metres.
Notes:
Ovo je shema jednostavne bez?i?ne komunikacije sa malo komponenata .Diode d1 i d2 su infracrvene le-diode ,a foto transistor je tako?er infracrveni radi ?to manjeg vanjskog utjecaja .Domet ure?aja je oko 3m no on se mo?e promijeniti brojem le-dioda i naponom koji se dovede na diode.Na izlaz se ?ak mogu i direktno spojiti slu?alice.Link mo?e poslu?iti i za prijenos drugih vrsta signala..Na popisu komponenata nema kriti?nih dijelova i izrada sklopa je jako jeftina. Uz malo pa?nje ne moe da ne radi.
P.S Transistors can be replaced with 2N3904 and 2N2222
Notes:
In his circuit Milan has created a basic Infra Red transmitter and receiver. The transmitter comprises a single amplifying stage driving two series connected IR LEDS. The input source is connected to J1. Please note that the device will pass a small DC current through it and also directly bias the transistor. A suitable device is therefore a high output crystal microphone. These can produce high output voltages up to 1 Volt but this will be reduced by the transistors low input impedance.
The receiver is three stages, the first stage being a phototransistor. Stages two and three form a high gain darlington emitter follower, the bias for the whole stage derived through R2 and the phototransistor itself. C1 and R3 form a filter to reduce interference from flourescent lighting and other hum sources. The output is via Jack J2. Note also that the output device will pass a small DC current so a medium impedance loudspeaker or hwadphones are a good choice here.
A basic Imfra Red Link for audio communication for distances upto 3 metres.
Ovo je shema jednostavne bez?i?ne komunikacije sa malo komponenata .Diode d1 i d2 su infracrvene le-diode ,a foto transistor je tako?er infracrveni radi ?to manjeg vanjskog utjecaja .Domet ure?aja je oko 3m no on se mo?e promijeniti brojem le-dioda i naponom koji se dovede na diode.Na izlaz se ?ak mogu i direktno spojiti slu?alice.Link mo?e poslu?iti i za prijenos drugih vrsta signala..Na popisu komponenata nema kriti?nih dijelova i izrada sklopa je jako jeftina. Uz malo pa?nje ne moe da ne radi.
P.S Transistors can be replaced with 2N3904 and 2N2222
Notes:
In his circuit Milan has created a basic Infra Red transmitter and receiver. The transmitter comprises a single amplifying stage driving two series connected IR LEDS. The input source is connected to J1. Please note that the device will pass a small DC current through it and also directly bias the transistor. A suitable device is therefore a high output crystal microphone. These can produce high output voltages up to 1 Volt but this will be reduced by the transistors low input impedance.
The receiver is three stages, the first stage being a phototransistor. Stages two and three form a high gain darlington emitter follower, the bias for the whole stage derived through R2 and the phototransistor itself. C1 and R3 form a filter to reduce interference from flourescent lighting and other hum sources. The output is via Jack J2. Note also that the output device will pass a small DC current so a medium impedance loudspeaker or hwadphones are a good choice here.
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Top 5 Reasons for a New Auto Sound System
If you are a fan of David Letterman, Im sure youve seen and heard his nutty and often hilarious top 10 lists. He has become famous for them and they have been often imitated but never quite aptly duplicated by many around the world. I have no intentions of trying to claim or ever hope to be as funny as Letterman but I would love to create a top 5 list of why you need a new auto sound system. The sad part is that some of this may ring true for many, if not, I bet it will at least make you smile.
5) You really hate your neighbors and secretly hope that enough loud, late night thumping from your car will convince them to move. Admittedly not the kindest reason for the need of a new auto sound system but if youve had some of my previous neighbors I am fairly certain that it isnt too bad of an idea. Just be careful not to shake too much or they may be leaving part of their automobiles behind.
4) Because you saw it on Ebay and like Weird Al Yankovich you just cant seem to refuse when it comes to last minute bargains in the worlds largest garage sale. The truth of the matter is that Ebay can be an excellent resource as far as auto sound systems go. It is important however, to remember that you really need to hear the system before you spend your hard earned money buying it and a lot of time and/or money on the installation of the sound system you select. For that reason Ebay may not be the best choice for your particular needs.
3) Because youre tired of crummy speakers that seem to play static more than music and make more popping and snapping sounds than your old fashioned popcorn popper. Speakers are often only a small part of how your sound system runs. Chances are if you are currently having speaker problems an entirely new auto sound system is going to be in order to insure that all the problems are fixed and solved to your complete satisfaction.
2) Because your Aunt Ethel who has cataracts has a better auto sound system than you. Believe me I know this one stings a little, especially when it hits home. We all hate to think that someone that is older has a more technologically hip and sound product than we do. We often like to kid ourselves into thinking that we live on the cutting edge of technology when that is probably far from the case. Aunt Ethel probably has the kicking sound system she does so that it can be heard without the assistance of miracle ear so keep that in mind before you pull all of your hair out.
And the number 1 reason you should get a new auto sound system is that the 8-trac went out of fashion long before your first child was born. Even though youve clung to the past, it has finally met its limitations of usefulness and it is time to move along and embrace the wonderful world of modern technology and what it can mean to you and the time you and your family spend riding in your vehicle. Hope you had a great smile for the day!
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